Struggle at B.C. vineyard sparks new methods for winemakers

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Canada Day marks the middle of a year most B.C. winegrowers want to forget as soon as possible. Mid-winter cold weather damage wreaked havoc in many Okanagan and Similkameen vineyards, forcing many grape growers to make tough decisions this spring. However, with challenges come solutions, many of which should bode well for the future of local wines, which has been riding high after a decade of unprecedented production, quality and price growth.

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As we await the adjustments, I thought we could look back at some critical developments in B.C. wine over the last decade and some recent wines that are direct descendants of these advances.

Amid the challenges, our interaction with the vineyards has driven the most significant changes. Despite the attention given to recent wildfires, smoke damage, and deep freeze events, the shift toward organic and biodynamic farming has emerged as a beacon of hope. This shift, projected to propel B.C. to a prominent position on the world’s most organically farmed vineyards list by 2030, is a testament to our commitment to a sustainable future for B.C. wine.

Curiously, opposition to organic farming has spurred an even more significant interest in growing sustainably. This doctrine includes the health of the land, the business, and the people working there. That movement transforms how we work the land, advocating stewardship versus ownership or management. These are all better options than the way we previously farmed.

The innovations inside the wineries are less obvious but no less critical. Overcoming challenges is vital, but so, too, is pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. Sophisticated presses have led to better fruit extraction and the ability to seek out the best path to softer tannins. Using more concrete tanks has let our unique terroir express itself like no oak barrel can. We have gone from corks to screw caps to bag-in-the-box to cans, all of which have broadened the utility and appeal of local wines. The pandemic taught us how to work leaner and more innovative.

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On the near horizon, lighter bottles, more AI, and electric, crewless tractors in the vineyard are set to revolutionize our industry and lessen our carbon footprint. This is an exciting time for B.C. wine; we are at the forefront of these advancements. As for the results, here is a short list of wines and wineries that impress us and, in many ways, reflect the future potential and possibilities open to B.C. winegrowers.

Noble Ridge has released an all-chardonnay magnum of Blanc de Blanc that charts its sparkling wine progress in Okanagan Falls. Benoît Gauthier, Director of Winemaking & Viticulture, constantly studies the terroir, producing what we all want: wines that reflect their origin.

In Summerland, Garnet Valley Ranch, Solera and Lightning Rock have pursued a higher level of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, producing some remarkable still and sparkling bottles one could never have thought possible a decade ago.

In the Similkameen, Orofino (Riesling), Corcelettes (Cabernet Franc), Little Farm (Chardonnay), Clos du Soleil (Sauvignon Blanc), and Liber Estates (Pinot Noir) have transformed what was once a sleepy landscape into one of the most exciting subregions in the modern wine world. Newcomers Bottega/Seven Directions (Rosé) and Maison Smith Monpetit (Merlot) have added more depth to the offering from this wild and windy valley.

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There are plenty of other good stories from the vineyards and wineries. Next week, I’ll continue with some added insight from the National Wine Awards of Canada.

Weekend wine picks

Bartier Bros. Riesling 2022, Kamloops

$24.99 I 91/100

UPC: 628055147183

Michael Bartier has had much success making riesling in the south Thompson River Valley consulting for others, so I asked him why not make a Riesling under the Bartier label. The 2022 is a stunning South Thompson River Valley Riesling hand-picked the day before Halloween. The fruit is grown on sandy silts over limestone bedrock. It is all whole-cluster-pressed; the fermentation is spontaneous in stainless steel tanks. Off-dry, yet seemingly dry, thanks to what Michael calls “galvanizing acidity,” lemons and minerals dominate from front to the back of the palate. Keep your hand on the bottle at parties because it will be gone in seconds. The bonus is this will age gracefully for decades.

River Stone Pinot Gris 2023, Okanagan Valley

$23.90 I 88/100

UPC: 626990156413

This is a pretty Gris in ’23, beginning with its enticing light copper colour that has bled into the wine’s colour from skin contact. Its nose is fresh with the scent of orchard blossoms, while the palate is a simple mix of crunchy apples. It’s mostly dry with good acidity and would be fine with a seafood salad or spicy sushi rolls. The vineyard is closing in on a quarter century of production, illustrating how time flies in the Okanagan. Winery direct.

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Da Silva Vinho Branco 2022, Okanagan Valley

$25.99 I 88/100

UPC: 626990408062

Vinho Branco is a unique B.C wine starting with its blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier, pearl of Casaba, and Chardonnay that come off three different vineyards to its “progressive” fermentation technique that sees the grapes co-fermented in a single tank as they arrive at the winery in a nod to the old Portuguese field blend technique. Winemaker Richard da Silva, whose family emigrated from Portugal, has been farming in the Okanagan since the mid-50s, gives us a remarkably fresh white pitching floral minerality, bitter grapefruit aromas and fresh white fruit sprinkled with a squeeze of ripe apricot and citrus that puckers the palate. A great place to drink this wine is onsite at The Kitchen, the winery patio restaurant that is packing them in.

Seven Directions Tractor and Vines Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé 2023, Okanagan Valley

$32 I 89/100

UPC: 626990275077

The grapes for this Pinot Noir rosé were farmed sustainably from a small parcel at lake level in West Kelowna. The 15-year-old vines are dry-farmed in rich organic, silty clay/loam soils. The colour is pale, pale salmon. The nose and palate are a busy mix of orange blossoms, pink grapefruit, and citrus-soaked watermelons. The style is a little more rustic this year with less finesse, but most will enjoy this lush style.

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Haywire Pinot Noir 2022, Okanagan Valley

$32.99 I 89/100

UPC: 626990161868

Haywire winemakers Matt Dumayne and Kat D’Costa approach the Okanagan’s unique terroir with a “less is more” style, and it is no more evident than in this Pinot that is made in state-of-the-art concrete tanks with simple, almost hands-off winemaking. The fruit comes from three Okanagan vineyards and is 50 per cent whole cluster pressed and 50 per cent whole berries, all naturally fermented over a month before being gently basket pressed to concrete tanks and foudre for aging. The result is a silky soft Pinot with intense spicy, savoury, dark cherry and a hint of youthful sticky tannins. It’s best with grilled salmon steaks or a mushroom risotto. Drink or hold through 2027.

Calendar items

Meyer Family Vineyards and Mayhem Wines present Jack and Jill on Saturday, July 27. This will be Jack and Jill’s third show at Meyer Family Vineyards, a yearly sell-out and a party you won’t want to miss. This lively crew brings down the house with an upbeat rock & roll set list and a dance floor, and wine, beer, cider  and non-alcoholic beverages are available for purchase —no outside alcohol permitted. The evening occurs outdoors on the grass; guests are welcome to bring a lawn chair or picnic blanket. Eats from The Beast BBQ and Smoke Shack, Tak-Oh, and Bo Betty’s will be available. Doors open at 6 p.m.; the show starts at 8 p.m. For your convenience. There is also a safe drive option with shuttle options from Penticton, Oliver & Osoyoos for $20. Limited seating is available; book in advance at mfvwines.com.

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•••

Congratulations to Vancouver-based Select Wines CEO Christopher Hoffmeister, who the French government awarded the prestigious Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit in late April. By honouring Hoffmeister, France recognizes his considerable contribution and Select Wines as a leader in promoting and distributing French wines and wine culture across Canada. The Order of Agricultural Merit is the highest distinction given in France to French and foreign individuals who have made significant contributions to agriculture and the food and wine industry. Hofmeister joins a growing list of British Columbians, gaining recognition for their work in the international wine market. They are a highly experienced and resourceful group, something local producers struggling to make it in the highly competitive wine world might consider tapping into.

B.C. wine of the week

Garnet Valley Pinot Noir 2022, Garnet Valley, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley

$44.99 I 91/100

UPC: 626990468004

The second Pinot Noir release from the site is organic and regeneratively farmed. All the grapes are fermented in concrete, with 50 per cent of the whole clusters included in the fermentation, adding a delicate fruit structure throughout. It is aged in a mix of neutral barriques and concrete, again a key to let the finest delicate notes reach for the stars. It’s finished under a screw cap, further enhancing the quest for purity. The balance is much improved this year, and the fruit, as mentioned, is more cerebral and delicate as it appears to dance along the palate. The tannins are minimal, and the savoury aspect is also less noticeable, adding to the charm of this wine. Again, simple foods that complement the wine using acidity and absorbing the tannins are the way to go. A fine piece of cheese, duck confit, cedar-planked salmon, or a mix of freshly picked and grilled root vegetables will work.

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Value wine of the week

Morgenster Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

$18-$21 I 90/100

UPC: 6009601800433

For over 20 years, I was a regular visitor to South Africa, and the wine that impressed me the most was Sauvignon Blanc. The quality was relatively high, and the price was dirt cheap. Unfortunately, the monopolies wanted to sell defective Pinotage. Twenty-five years later, the Sauvignon Blanc is better than ever, and it’s still dirt cheap, but very little of the good stuff makes it to BC. If you are an Sauv Blanc fan, it’s worth searching for this Morgenster label. Look for a little New Zealand and a lot of Sancerre in this wine, a gooseberry, mineral, ripe apple affair that slides down easily. Elegant, dry, and crisp with a smooth, smoky, mineral finish, this overdelivers for the price.  A summer evening of oysters and Morgenster would be a great start to discovering the South African Sauvignon Blanc special. Private wine shops only.

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