San Francisco and Sonoma Country: Urban vibes and rugged coastlines

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Caution, skepticism and, yes, intrigue were the reactions to seeing a squid ink cocktail on the menu. This cannot possibly end well, or so thought.

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I had reason to believe I was in good hands on The Terrace, the elegant third-floor patio bar at the Jay Hotel. A convenient place to base yourself during a visit to San Francisco, the rooms are spacious, and it’s walking distance to many of the city’s highlights.

The helpful server assured me the drink would not disappoint.

This opaque concoction was the best cocktail of my trip — and there were many good libations during my week in San Francisco and close-by Sonoma County.

This walkable and dense city exudes a dream-like utopia of a laid-back urban experience. The steep streets offer distant city and water views, going for a stroll feels like urban hang gliding.

Facing the waters of San Francisco Bay, the Presidio Tunnel Tops — which has been updated with an additional 14 acres of park space – has green space, beaches, and a view of the Golden Gate Bridge. The scenic Picnic at Transit area has nearby food trucks. For some unmissable, Mexican-inspired cuisine, time your visit with the El Fuego food truck.  From the picnic area, enjoy a waterfront stroll towards the base of the Golden Gate Bridge at Fort Point National Historic Site. The unique perspective shows the bridge’s grandeur.

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The transit here is cooler than your hometown. It looks like a trolley, or a streetcar, but the iconic cable car – with three lines – is the lazy and entertaining way to begin your visit to this very hilly city.

Yeah, it’s touristy, but for a very good reason. Enjoy the novelty of open-air seating, or better yet, grab onto a handle and hang over the edge. Not sure if this is officially sanctioned, but no one seemed to frown on it.

If you happen to be staying at the stately Beacon Grand hotel near Union Square, the cable car stops right out front. With a history going back to 1928, this grand dame reopened in 2022. The hotel welcomes guests with a grand entrance, an even grander dining area, and nicely appointed rooms. For a drink and city views, head to The Starlite Lounge on the 21^st floor.

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A leisurely drink with a view of the city behind me was a reasonable expectation of a sunset cruise to the Golden Gate Bridge. This was not that cruise – it was an adventure!

I didn’t know I would be at the helm of the USA 76, an 84-foot, 50,000-pound former racing sailboat that competed for the America’s Cup. I was clueless, but we were all under the care of Captain Jon Buser plus three crew members with AC Sailing.

While cruising upwind, the yacht felt as if it was completely on its side as the passengers sat/stood on the “high side.” At the time, it felt like it was vertical, though it turns out the boat was angled at a visually misleading 27 degrees.

Alamo Square park feels like a hilltop oasis. Palm and cypress trees frame the far-off cityscape. The sprawling grass area has a view of a row of seven Painted Ladies — the quintessential San Francisco home with Victorian or Edwardian style architecture with three or more colours. This was the view in the opening credits from the TV show Full House.

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The walkable Mission District — the flattest part of the city — has an amazing Mexican eatery, La Taqueria. The refreshing aguas frescas, made with freshly squeezed juice, are a joy. You can eat inside the lively casual dining room, or head to nearby Dolores Park and enjoy some more elevated views of San Francisco.

The base of the Coit Tower on the top of Telegraph Hill, is a good starting point for a stroll to enjoy expansive – and yes, elevated — urban views.  Like much of San Francisco, it’s a bit of a climb – a quick cab ride up might be a good idea. The views are worth lingering over. The stairs to the top of the tower offer a panoramic view. It’s worth it if you have the energy – but not an essential exertion.

From there, gravity is on your side as you make your way slowly downhill, meandering through the picturesque neighbourhoods.

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I am no pizza expert, but as far as I can recall, the best pizza I’ve had in my life was at the multiple award-winning Tony’s Pizza Napoletana They have seven ovens with baking temperatures ranging from 500°F all the way to 1000°F, there is a pie for each palette. The patio offers a nice neighbourhood vibe to enjoy.

There is lots to see in the Bay Area outside of the city. Nearby Sonoma County has plenty to explore as a day trip, or give yourself more time and base yourself at the Flamingo Resort and Spa. California mornings tend to be on the cool side — luckily the rather sizeable outdoor pool is heated to a balmy 27C.

A designated driver would come in handy as Sonoma County is home to more than 425 wineries. How to find the right one for a wine tasting? Start with Paradise Ridge Winery. Enjoy a wide variety of wines to sample, as well as views of the rolling vineyard and Russian Valley from the shaded patio.

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Barlow Market District, a 12-acre outdoor area in nearby Sebastopol, offers a walkable storefront experience of food, drink and recreation.

Like a kid in candy store, enjoy a DIY wine tasting session at Region. With your own glass in hand, you stand before a wall of more than 50 local wines which you can sample at your own pace and pleasure (prices vary per sample).

On to the Golden State Cider Taproom, where you can taste a seeming endless variety of ciders. The Gingergrass cider is worth packing (carefully) in your suitcase to bring home.

The nostalgia was intense at The Rewind Arcade as I was transported back to my university days playing the Addams Family pinball game … one of many. Paid for two games, won two games. I still got it!

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It’s worth the stroll to nearby Screamin’ Mimi’s for amazing ice-cream. Finish the day off with an exquisite dinner and cocktails at Fern Bar restaurant.

For some outdoor recreation, start your day at Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve Walk in the serene and shaded forest among the Coast Redwood trees. The trees tower like skyscrapers. Tallest among them is the Parson Jones — it’s reported to be 1,300 years old with a diameter of 13.8 feet and towering at 310 feet tall.

Sonoma County’s 88 kilometres of coastline make for a classic California cliffside drive. For a tasty and scenic bite, head to Fishertarian Fish Market right on the protected waters of Bodega Bay. They have a good selection of all things seafood. The crab cakes tasted great on the waterfront picnic table.

For some time on the rugged Pacific coast, you can drive right up to Bodega Bay trail head. It has it all: A cliffside drive to get there, a sandy beach and a windy cliff to walk along and enjoy the views. The parking is at the top of the cliff and can be enjoyed quickly or, better yet, give yourself a few hours to relax and enjoy the scenery.

San Francisco and Sonoma County have a fun mix of urban and outdoor experiences. You will want more time here than you think. However, for the visitor short on time, it’s easy to pack in a lot of memories.

edoroszuk@postmedia.com

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