Rainbow is in fashion – Lifestyle News

When fashion designer Mayyur Girotra showcased his Ride to Pride collection earlier this month at New York Pride, an event celebrating the LGBTQ community in New York City, his collection blurred the lines of traditional dressing with genderless styles where every ensemble is gender-fluid, inclusive and global.

“The idea was to create a safe space for people to explore and express their identities without judgment, restrictions or societal pressures,” says Girotra, who has been a vocal champion of the LGBTQ+ community for many years now. This annual Pride collection is of immense significance to him. “This collection is for my soul. The final intent is to create impact and change, and in this case, I have used fashion as a medium to achieve that,” he adds.

The collection has Gujarati Kutch patchwork embroideries, ikat patterns and custom prints tailored into global silhouettes. High waist pants, trench coats and oversized shirts coexist with lehenga skirts and saris. With the use of upcycled silk and linen, Girotra uses a palette of bougainvillea pink, sandy neutrals and delicate rainbow hues that form the tapestry of Indian culture and the Pride flag.

“I’ve always viewed fashion as far more than just clothes and embroideries. I also see it as more than just a manifestation of India’s heritage and design legacy,” adds Girotra.

Similarly, BeUnic, founded in 2019 as a queer-owned marketplace for gender-inclusive and Pride-themed products, is expanding its presence in India with unique merchandise like tote bags and t-shirts. Vishesh Chopra, founder of BeUnic, started the brand when his brother Ashish was not able to find mens’ shoes with heels. “Our mother, Simmi Nanda, thought of launching footwear catering to the LGBTQ+ community and their tastes, and that’s how it began,” says Chopra, who feels the segment is growing in terms of variety and revenues.

“We also plan to expand globally in a few years. There are many inclusive brands coming up that offer all kinds of styles to choose from,” he adds, explaining how the Indian market is opening up to experimentation with fashion and trends.

“India has always been gender-fluid in clothing and expression of identity. So we need to reclaim it from our past and make space for people to dress how they like without hatred or judgment,” adds Chopra.

Diamonds are an everlasting symbol of love, and for Darayus Mehta, co-founder of True Diamond, a certified lab-grown diamond jewellery brand, inclusivity is central to everything. “Our collection, especially the bat studs, embody the spirit of individuality and self-expression that is at the heart of the LGBTQ community. These pieces are not just jewellery, but statements of pride designed to resonate with everyone regardless of their background or identity,” feels Mehta, who started full-time operations of the brand in January this year and hopes to reach $1million annual recurring revenue (ARR) through the online platform.

June is Pride month, and the LGBTQ community finds representation in a diverse range of merchandise created especially for them.

“Pride is a time to proudly raise flags and march in support for all areas of the LGBTQAI+ and rainbow flags play a big role, but in recent times, we have seen slogan tees that display empowering messages of support along with messages that demand positive change and action,” says Robbie Sinclair, director, youth, Fashion Snoops, a New York-based trend forecasting and consumer insight agency which has partnered with Wazir Advisors in South Asia for selling services in the region.

If gay fashion designers like Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, who have ruled the ramps, fashion collaborations have also worked well for the fraternity. English model Cara Delevingne walked the ramp in 2018 wearing a Burberry rainbow cape, which was Burberry president and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey’s last for the iconic British heritage brand.

Missoni’s spring-summer 2018 silk rainbow dresses were modelled by Kendall Jenner in Harley Weir’s campaign, while Dolce & Gabbana focused on multicoloured and ribboned dresses the same year. Marco de Vincenzo debuted multicoloured trimmed wool coats for autumn winter and Versace showed a rainbow mini dress, worn by Gigi Hadid, at the Milan Fashion Week 2018.

Variety galore

The Pride merchandise varies from pin badges, pillow covers, coffee mugs, rainbow-shaped doormats, cloud night lamps, and keychains to a range of shirts with slogans on various e-commerce websites like Etsy, which also has personalised spinner rings, and items like a rainbow stripe rotatable ring in titanium and steel, Boho flags, and chokers in many variations. UK-based Urbanic also has a collection of Pride accessories and clothes. 

A handful of homegrown brands are associated with online dating app Tinder, and digital space Gaysi Family, to bring the third edition of Queer Made Weekend, a queer extravaganza of fashion, art, merchandise, home decor, and zines, in June in Delhi. For instance, Mumbai-based AshCo has printed shirts, eclectic bags, accessories; Delhi-based TheEliteThrift is a treasure trove of fashion; Genderse is about chest binders designed for Indian climate; Khanjra, an initiative by the Naz Foundation India Trust, makes jewellery; A Spinster is about handcrafted fibre arts, where founder Vishakha spins a yarn using sheep wool and other natural fibres, weaves crochet to make wall art, home accessories, winter wear and kink wear. Astitva Art has handmade sustainable home decor, while Forbidden Verses is a Delhi-based artists’ collective for conversations around art, promoting local and marginalised artists and making art more accessible.

Some of the collections are also moving beyond the traditional rainbow shades and drawing inspiration from specific queer movements in history. Like Levi’s new 2024 Pride collection has taken cues from LGBTQIA+ rodeo culture, with a capsule look that includes shirts, vests, jeans, bottoms and accessories embellished with rhinestones, copper thread, marbled hardware, gold-coated denim and more. Or a tie-dye hat with the slogan ‘The Protect Trans Kids’ which has the trans flag vs just the rainbow colours.

As consumers are increasingly seeking products that marry their commitments to social justice, sustainability, and accessibility, Danny Goldstein, community manager, Fashion Snoops, says value-based shoppers are looking for brands who do good across all areas.

“There’s a growing emphasis on sustainability in LGBTQIA+ collections with companies utilising recycled materials or organic cotton like the queer-owned NY-based brand Zero Waste Daniel. Some companies are enhancing the accessibility of their Pride merchandise for people with disabilities. This includes incorporating features such as Braille on shirts or designs using sign language, like DeafAF’s 2024 Pride Edition. Even as the industry is recognising the need for adaptive clothing that fits diverse body types, specifically for trans and gender nonconforming individuals, this involves creating pieces with alterable and fitted silhouettes to ensure a proper fit for all. Brands like Both& designs shirts specifically for AFAB (assigned female at birth) masc-presenting (all men, masculine nonbinary) consumers. They have perfected shirt proportions to accommodate features like a shorter torso, narrow shoulders, more room at the hips, well-fitted sleeves, and raised collars to conceal binders,” adds Goldstein.

Even though Pride products are linked to Pride flags, there are more important factors for brands to consider when designing their range. “Some brands have come under fire for rainbow washing and consumers from the LGBTQAI+ community deserve a brand that aligns and supports in ways that reach far beyond a rainbow flag. A great way for brands to be a true ally is to stand strong with all aspects of the community, particularly when the community is challenged by oppressors. Authenticity is key so brands should seek out ways to raise awareness and donate to the causes that help protect, educate and support the LGBTQAI+ community if they are going to sell products to celebrate Pride month,” adds Sinclair.