Getting off the well-trodden path in Ireland

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With 32 distinct counties throughout Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, deciding which parts of the Emerald Isle to visit can be a challenge, but planning it can be half the fun if you take the road less travelled.

With around 10 million visitors every year and a culture rooted in generosity and friendliness, Ireland has mastered the art of hospitality. But where to go? I regularly ask locals the best place in Ireland, and I’ve never heard the same response twice (“Donegal”! “Down!” “Dingle!” “Dalkey!”).

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Far beyond the very well-known places, such as Cork, Blarney or the Ring of Kerry, savvy travellers who don’t mind venturing a little further can reap the rewards of veering off the well-trodden tourist path.

A different kind of city experience

Many international flights arrive and depart from Dublin, making this bustling city a natural stop for many. While the Guinness Storehouse, EPIC Emigration Museum and the Library of Trinity College are leading attractions (and for good reason), some lesser-known spots shouldn’t be missed. Marsh’s Library, founded in 1707, offers visitors a well-preserved 18th-century literary experience. Bram Stoker, who penned Dracula, studied here. Nearby, the Little Museum of Dublin is, indeed, little, but each tour is unique, funny and fascinating.

For a different Irish city experience, consider Derry-Londonderry (Derry) and Belfast, both in Northern Ireland.

Derry recently attained pop culture acclaim thanks to the global success of Netflix’s Derry Girls, which follows the trials and tribulations of a pack of teenage girls during the Troubles of the 1990s. But the story of Derry spans centuries. Its historic centre is enclosed by a fully intact 400-year-old city wall (you can walk along the top of it for great views of the city and River Foyle), while museums such as the Museum of Free Derry and Peacemakers Museum (opening Summer 2024) provide remarkable reflection and information about the decades of conflict in Northern Ireland and the peace it enjoys today. Derry is home to dozens of murals, many depicting key moments in history for citizens, and a stark reminder of the struggles of the past.

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Belfast is a city of contrasts, surprises, history and beauty. A suitable starting point for adventures along the Causeway Coast and beyond, the city takes immense pride in the history of its shipyards, which is where the Titanic was built. Today, Titanic Quarter is home to a hotel and the Titanic Experience, a self-guided interactive museum that tells the stories of the people who built the ship and its ill-fated maiden voyage. In typical Irish humour, “She was alright when she left here,” T-shirts can be seen in local shops.

In the footsteps of literary giants

Ireland is home to many literary greats, including Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, James Joyce, Bram Stoker, W.B. Yeats and more. While Dublin offers nods to Wilde, including a monument in the city’s Merrion Square, Yeats Country is in County Sligo. Sligo is a pleasant surprise for many first-time visitors: mountainscapes, seaside villages and ancient historic sites, including megalithic tombs that are older than the Egyptian pyramids in Giza.

The town of Drumcliffe in County Sligo is the final resting place for Yeats. He is buried in a simple graveyard at Drumcliffe Church, located near the base of Ben Bulben, a dramatic tabletop mountain that dominates the coastal geography. It’s easy to see why this place inspired the poet and his work.

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While in County Sligo, pick up your favourite Irish novel and enjoy a long soak in a traditional seaweed bath at VOYA, located in Strandhill. The seaweed is hand-harvested locally and the bath is heated in seawater, providing a nutrient-rich and very relaxing spa-like experience.

Bicycles, beaches and bogs

County Mayo could be considered the heart of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, with historic towns, meandering, picturesque coastlines, unique national parks and dreamy beaches.

Located near Newport, the Great Western Greenway stretches 42 km, giving walkers, runners and cyclists (e-bikes are welcome and available for rent) to take in the natural beauty of the area. From there, head to Achill Island, where quiet stretches of beaches such as Keem Bay (as seen in The Banshees of Inisherin), are lined with fine golden sand and turquoise waters. Nearby Wild Nephin National Park is a place of wonderful contrasts: from expanses of untouched bogland to pristine coastal boardwalks, dark skies, wild camping and walking loops. It’s the third-largest national park in Ireland and certainly off the grid.

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Exploring sea cliffs

County Clare’s Cliffs of Moher is one of Ireland’s most recognizable and popular destinations. attracting around one million visitors per year. If it’s an absolute must-see on your list, visit in the evening, when crowds have scattered and you can experience golden hour at a more leisurely pace. Experienced walkers can embark on the eight-km Coastal Walk from the town of Doolin for even more solitude.

The village of Doolin is also a great launching point to the Aran Islands and a glimpse into Ireland’s past. Dùn Aonghasa, on the island of Inis Mór, is a spectacular ancient stone fort located at the top of sheer sea cliffs, offering unobstructed views of Ireland’s west coast. Take care walking around the fort, as there are no barriers at the cliff edge.

For a more remote and wild sea cliff experience, consider visiting Slieve League Cliffs (Sliabh Liag), located in County Donegal. A notable stop along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, the cliffs are among the tallest in Europe, and at close to 600 metres, they are three times taller than their more famous cousin, the Cliffs of Moher.

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After a scenic, albeit narrow road to the observation area (you can also walk or take a shuttle bus up, as the road can be difficult to navigate), you can enjoy a dramatic view of the cliffs, and intrepid hikers can venture to the top. Another advantage is the drive or scenic flight to get to this part of the country, as you’ll get a glimpse of the rugged and isolated beauty of County Donegal along the way.

Visit Ireland for another very famous holiday

Many people assume that St. Patrick’s Day might be one of Ireland’s top holidays, but Halloween’s origins are more Irish than the saint himself. Steeped in folklore, stories and rich Celtic history, the traditions of Halloween are firmly rooted and celebrated at festivals throughout the country, including the Puca Festival in Ireland’s Ancient East, and Derry’s popular Halloween festival.

If a trip to Ireland is on your agenda, consider taking the time for a longer, scenic route, scheduling an unscheduled stop in a small town, asking a local for the best fish & chips, booking a local farm or foodie tour or staying at a hotel (or even a castle) in a more remote area – you won’t regret it.

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