U.S. Virgin Islands home to world’s best beach and more

Article content

ST. JOHN

Arriving by ferry, we are met by Kenneth Louis, our guide from Great Exploration Tours.

Kenneth quickly notes the island is 5.8 miles (9.3 km) wide, 19 miles (30.5 km) long and boasts more churches than it does residents.

Five hurricanes have ravaged the island since 2017 but the spirit of its determined inhabitants has not been deterred as the rebuilding process plods along. Louis says the efforts of philanthropist Michael Bloomberg and country singer Kenny Chesney helped restore electricity quickly after hurricanes Irma and Maria.

Louis is a wealth of knowledge about the region’s history, narrating as his open taxi meanders narrow, winding hillside roads.

He recounts that St. John was first colonized by Denmark in 1718 and, almost 100 years later, it was sold with the other two islands to the United States for $25 million.

Article content

Article content

En route to the beach, there’s a stop at the former Annaberg sugar plantation, which began operating circa 1870 using slaves to harvest sugar cane. It’s rare to see buildings of that area preserved in such a great state, says Louis.

A large portion of the island makes up Virgin Islands National Park.

“In 1952, Laurence Rockefeller sailed around the island and saw all the beaches were natural. He never stepped off the boat or onto a beach, but fell in love with the area,” says Louis.

In 1954, Rockefeller began acquiring parcels of land and, in 1956, he donated 11,723 acres to the government, Two years later, President Dwight D. Eisenhower declared the collective parcels as a national park.

The star of the park service is Trunk Bay, stretching for one-third of a mile with a forested backdrop. It’s the only St. John beach with an entry fee and the lineup starts early.

Heather Erion and daughter Joey spent the morning building castles from the wispy white sand, while scores soaked up rays and enjoyed dipping into the aqua blue sea.

Trunk Bay has full change facilities, beach chair and snorkel gear rental, plus a take-out snack shack and a full bar where happy hour starts at 9 a.m.!

Article content

ST. THOMAS

Regarded as the “duty free capital of the world,” the USVI capital of Charlotte Amalie exudes the attitude of a big city in idyllic surroundings.

It’s a shopper’s paradise, with endless stretches of cobblestone streets lined with high-end jewelry stores, watch shops and art galleries.

After hours of window shopping, hunger draws the famished down a narrow laneway to Gladys’ Cafe for a hearty helping of delectable stewed oxtail.

En route to The Hideaway at Hull Bay, a private luxury estate, travellers are treated to stops at Drakes Seat and Skyline Overlook for spectacular aerial views of the city, Magen’s Bay beach and arriving cruise ships in the harbour.

The Hideaway, with occupancy for 36 guests in cottages and villas, is the only resort in USVI to be situated on a working farm. Its ingredients are highlighted in dishes like lobster lettuce wraps with rice noodles and guava sauce; ultra-fresh mahi grilled on banana leaf with glass noodles in an agrodolce coconut broth; and juicy double-fried chicken served on dirty rice with chipotle butter succotash.

Article content

Outside this gated paradise, another culinary adventure awaits at Oceana Restaurant and Bistro, overlooking Baye de Grigri.

The property has a rich history. It was first settled by the Danish government in the mid-1670s and later became a Russian embassy. The main building, protected by sturdy hurricane shutters, is thought to have been built in the mid-1800s.

Owner Patricia LaCorte, a renowned chef originally from France, has operated several restaurants across the USVI. Her connections to local farmers and fishermen land her fresh bounty for exotic creations.

The skillfully constructed tuna tartare appetizer with fresh ginger, soy, scallion, pickled red onion wasabi-miso aioli and fried wontons is a refreshing start.

An escabeche of roasted beets atop whipped feta, with a drizzle of sweet onion marmalade, hits earthy notes with an acidic twinge.

Article content

A bouillabaisse with spiny lobster, garlic shrimp, littleneck clams and mussels bathes in a rich saffron broth.

Another way to dine is the Sunset & Harbor Lights Dinner Sail tracing the St. Thomas coastline, offering dynamic sunsets and evening views of island nightlife.

ST. CROIX

From St. Thomas, it’s a short hop on Cape Air or a 90-minute ferry ride to the town of Christiansted, which originally was a French settlement before being handed to the Danish in 1734.

Constructed on a grid pattern, its colourful stone buildings and cobblestone sidewalks still exist today, though many have been vacant since hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017.

Restaurants and clubs ring the bustling harbour boardwalk, steps from a national historic site where six buildings of historical significance — including a fort built in 1738 — have been preserved.

Nearby at Buck Island, Caribbean Sea Adventures drops off snorkellers for an afternoon of fascinating exploration at the nation’s first underwater trail. Two-thirds of the island is ringed by an elkhorn coral barrier reef, providing an extensive ecosystem for marine fauna, fish and turtles.

The iconic Buccaneer Resort is hard to beat for first-rate accommodations on the island. Luxury townhouse-style units are spread across 340 acres complete with a golf course, tennis courts, spa, conference centre, full-service restaurant and three distinctive beaches.

Discerning diners visiting St. Croix will undoubtedly seek a coveted reservation at Savant, voted among the Top 10 restaurants in the Caribbean in 2017 by USA Today.

Guests can choose the cozy New York-style room for an intimate setting or the outdoor courtyard with carved cement walls and candlelit niches. How special is Savant? On our visit no less than five tables celebrated a birthday, drawing raucous applause and ‘Happy Birthday’ sing-a-longs from guests.

The house special is a crispy lobster egg roll, setting up sensational mains like a decadent 16-ounce ribeye crusted with blue cheese or a double-cut pork chop nestled in a creamy cheese risotto.

This is the perfect way to celebrate a three-island adventure.

For more information about the U.S. Virgin Islands, check out visitusvi.com.

khann@postmedia.com

Article content