How to make exceptional shrimp and grits, according to a golf-club chef

There are some dishes where the differences between an okay example and an exceptional one are difficult to discern. Shrimp and grits isn’t one of them, at least not in the opinion of John Ondo, the executive chef at The Ocean Course at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, who makes a standout version of the southern staple and serves it at The Atlantic Room.

“There are exactly three gazillion different ways to make the dish,” he says, “But when you boil it all down there are two common components: shrimp and grits. What separates a great rendition from a so-so — or even bad one —i s two things. First, always start with the best primary ingredients: the freshest wild-caught shrimp and the highest quality stone-ground grits. Second, don’t bury the flavors of these great primary ingredients with a whole bunch of other ingredients. Keep it simple.”

Aside from those tips, making a great version of shrimp & grits simply requires attention to proper cooking technique and well-timed seasoning. “You want your grits to be substantial enough to absorb and collect the sauce,” he explains. “You don’t want them too runny or thin, nor do you want them to thick or too tight. And only cook the shrimp until the tails curl and they no long appear translucent — about three minutes simmering in the sauce.”

As for when and how to season the dish, reach for the salt and pepper as you begin to prepare the dish, in the middle of the cooking process, and also near the end. “If you do that,” Chef Ondo says, “your flavors will be a little more harmonious than if you wait and try to season the dish at the end.”

Armed with this advice (and the recipe below), you’re primed and ready to cook a dish that the chef describes as “redolent of coastal summer.” Just promise us you don’t use those overly processed instant grits. Seriously, don’t do it! “The difference between using quality stone-ground grits and quick grits cannot be overstated,” Ondo reiterates. “It’s night and day.”

How to make shrimp & grits

Ingredients:

-24 large (16- to 20-count) shrimp (peeled, deveined, and tail off)
-1 tablespoon vegetable oil
-1 small white onion, thinly sliced
-2 10-oz packages of baby heirloom tomatoes or grape tomatoes, halved
-4 tablespoons bacon (approximately 6 to 8 slices thick bacon), cooked and diced
-1 tablespoon garlic, minced
-1 tablespoon shallots, minced
-¼ cup prepared tomato sauce
-½ cup white wine
-1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
-4 scallions, thinly sliced and divided
-2 tablespoons butter
-Salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients (for the grits):

-1 cup stone-ground grits
-2 cups whole milk
-2 cups water
-4 tablespoons butter
-2 tablespoons salt

Preparation:

-In a heavy-bottom saucepan, bring milk and water to a simmer.

-Add grits and salt and stir until it begins to boil.

-Reduce heat to simmer and cook 45 to 60 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes, taking care that grits do not stick to bottom of pan.

-Check seasoning and add salt if desired.

-Stir in butter, remove from heat, cover, and wait to serve.

-Once the grits are cooked, warm a large sauté pan over medium heat.

-Add oil and onions, sprinkling with a little salt, and cook until they begin to soften (about a minute).

-Add bacon and tomatoes, and cook until the tomatoes soften and break down (about three minutes).

-Add a few cracks of pepper, garlic, shallots, and shrimp and cook for one minute. (Work quickly once shrimp is added to ensure they do not get overcooked.)

-Add wine and bring to a simmer, cooking until shrimp turn opaque, tails curl, and wine is cooked out (about two minutes).

-Add tomato sauce and stock and quickly bring to a boil.

-Season with another crack of pepper and pinch of salt.

-Add butter and scallions (reserving some for garnish) and quickly stir to incorporate. 

-Check seasoning and adjust to taste.

-Remove from heat and serve immediately.

To assemble:

Give the grits a good stir, then divide into four bowls, creating a mound of grits in each. Using a pair of tongs, pick out the shrimp and arrange them in a circle on top of the grits. Using a large spoon, equally distribute the sauce and vegetables into each serving, and pour remaining sauce equally over the shrimp and grits. Garnish with the remaining scallions.